Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Rescue Your Fescue and Other Cool Season Grasses, Sept. - Feb.

Cool season turf may require fertilizing around three American holidays: 
Labor Day, Thanksgiving and Valentine's Day.
Cool season grasses like tall fescue, fine fescue and Kentucky bluegrass require fertilizing, aerating, reseeding, weed control and other maintenance beginning in September.

Here is a simple calendar by the NCSU Turffiles website. http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/Maintenance_Calendars.aspx#004377
September through November

Mowing: Mow to 2 1/2 to 3 inches in height.

Fertilization: Fertilize once in September and once in November. Have your soil tested. Ask your county Cooperative Extension agent about a free soil test. Then apply the nutrient your lawn needs. If you don't test, apply a complete nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) turf-grade fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio (that is, 12-4-8 or 16-4-8). Fertilize with 1 pound of actual nitrogen (N) per 1,000 square feet in mid-September and again in November (about the time the grass is green but not actively growing). You need to apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, so how much fertilizer do you need to buy? Divide 100 by the FIRST number of the fertilizer bag. (The first number always represents nitrogen content.) For example, if you've got a 10-10-10 fertilizer, divide 100 by 10 and you get 10. That means you need to buy 10 pounds of fertilizer for every 1,000 square feet of lawn.

Aerification: Core lawns subject to heavy traffic or on clay soils to minimize compaction and improve rooting. Break up plugs.

Insect Control: Check for white grubs in September and October; fall is the ideal time to control white grubs. (See
White Grubs in Turf, ENT/ORT-67, AG-366.)

Weed Control: Apply broadleaf herbicides to control broadleaf weeds like chickweed, henbit, and other weeds as necessary. Caution: Some herbicides may affect newly seeded turf. Follow label directions.


Watering: This turfgrass blend needs 1 to 1 1/4 inches of water every week, ideally all at once. A dark bluish-gray color and wilted, folded, or curled leaves indicate that it is time to water. Water until the soil is wet to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Use a screwdriver or similar implement to check. Sandy soils require more frequent watering (about inch of water every third day). Because clay soils accept water slowly, irrigate just until runoff occurs, wait until the water has been absorbed, and begin watering again. Continue until the desired depth or amount is applied. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce problems later in the summer. Watering between 2 and 8 a.m. decreases the incidence of certain diseases.


December through February

Mowing: Mow to 3 inches and remove leaves and other debris.

Fertilization: Fertilize with 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in February.

Aeration: Delay aeration until fall.

Weed Control: Apply broadleaf herbicides as necessary for control of chickweed, henbit, or other weeds.

Watering: This turfgrass blend needs 1 to 1 1/4 inches of water every week, ideally all at once. A dark bluish-gray color and wilted, folded, or curled leaves indicate that it is time to water. Water until the soil is wet to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Use a screwdriver or similar implement to check. Sandy soils require more frequent watering (about 1/2 inch of water every third day). Because clay soils accept water slowly, irrigate just until runoff occurs, wait until the water has been absorbed, and begin watering again. Continue until the desired depth or amount is applied. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce problems later in the summer. Watering between 2 and 8 a.m. decreases the incidence of certain diseases. 

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Book Review: Ortho's Home Gardener's Problem Solver

Hands down THE BEST pictorial reference guide for all of your gardening problems! Organized by plant type and with a section for common bugs. Simply flip to the page(s) of your affected plant and scan the list of possible problems, each description containing close-up photography and problem analysis and possible solutions.

Publisher: Ortho Books (March 1, 2001)
ISBN-10: 0897214706
ISBN-13: 978-0897214704
Paperback: 400 pages

From Publishers Weekly...
 
For years, gardeners and nursery folks have turned to The Ortho Problem Solver for advice in diagnosing and combating plant ailments. Now a new smaller yet comprehensive version of that ponderous reference tool is available for the home gardener. This book, with its multiple detailed charts and illustrations, shows gardeners how to diagnose problems and cope with or eliminate them, then recommends what long-term changes gardeners can make in how they care for a particular plant to prevent a recurrence. Not surprisingly, among the most commonly recommended solutions are chemical ones, specifically the use of Ortho products, whereas organic and nontoxic treatment methods are conspicuously absent.
 
This well-organized, clearly presented tome includes every conceivable problem affecting all types of indoor and outdoor specific to diverse geographic regions plants, with similar symptoms grouped together for ease of use. Of particular interest, enabling gardeners to plant wisely, are the various appendixes, including those that list which plants are most susceptible to specific diseases and which are most resistant to such problems. (Mar. 1) Forecast: Devoted gardeners who have relied on Ortho books in the past will find this new one extremely useful. Organic gardeners, however, will probably pass this one over, for it promotes only chemically based pest control.

Sunday, August 17, 2014

Garden Spotlight: Powis Castle, Wales


Add Powis Castle to your next UK travel itinerary for its gorgeous Italianate gardens of Welsh native plants. The castle, originally built circa 1200, began life as a medieval fortress. Remodelled and embellished over more than 400 years, it reflects the changing needs and ambitions of the Herbert family - each generation adding to the magnificent collection of paintings, sculpture, furniture and tapestries.
See more on Powis Castle at http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/powis-castle/ and http://www.victoriamag.com/historic-powis-castle-gardens/. Photo by the National Trust.
Powis Castle, Wales. Photo by Andrew Butler.

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Cover Crops and Crop Rotation Focus of Briggs Ave. Garden Program, Aug. 16

Cover crops of crimson clover and brundage wheat were planted
 early July in this gardening plot at the Briggs Ave. Community Garden.
Photo by Leanna Murphy Duno.
What's a great way to make your vegetable garden plot more nitrogen-rich (without fertilizer) during the off season? Plant a cover crop! 

Durham  County Extension Master Gardener Leanna Murphy Dono will be leading a class on “Cover Crops and Crop Rotation” to help gardeners learn about planting fall/winter cover crops (like clovers and legumes) that help soil recover nutrients, improve soil structure and prevent weeds when not planted in vegetable crops. The program will be held outdoors Sat., Aug. 16 from 10-11 a.m. at the Briggs Ave. Community Garden. Alternate rain location will be the Durham County Extension Office, 721 Foster St, Durham, NC 27701.

During the class, participants will examine some cover crops growing in the garden now and look at how plants are turned over/break down. You’ll learn about the benefits of planting buckwheat, rye, crimson clover, cow peas and more and the timing of planting in the rotation (spring vs. summer.)

The Cooperative Extension Office has purchased enough cover crop seed that all the Briggs plot owners who attend will be able to put in a cover crop who’d like to for a hands-on planting demo.

This class is free and open to the public.

To register, please call Pana Jones at 919-560-0525 or email: prjones2@ncsu.edu.